Oh dear - India – land of the hidden extra. Whenever anything is described as ‘only’ here, there’s always a whole raft of extras. ‘8% government tax madam’, or ‘ 14% VAT madam’, or ‘only 6% tax madam and no receipt’ or ‘3% for card madam’ plus the inevitable tip. It isn’t that anyone minds paying, just that it would be nice to know the total price at the outset. This is a grumble from Indians too, as it happens. For example: Trip to Agra, no entrance fees included. The Red Fort - Rs 250 (+ Rs 50 tax). Tell the guide ‘no’. Tell the guide ‘no’ again, and hold your ground. So that wasn’t too bad then. Next, Taj Mahal – Rs 750 (+ Rs 50 tax). The car park is some way away, so you’re obliged to take another form of transport (although I may have been misled over this), in my case a horse and cart. Rs 100, and off we go. Oh right, Rs 100 there, and Rs 100 back. Tour guides hop on the back of the cart who say they are official government ones. ‘Look madam, my identity card’. They insist that to see the Taj Mahal without a guide would be pointless. Wits are certainly required – one doesn’t wish to appear mean in the midst of so much poverty, but there’s no need to be taken for a ride. I’m quite a target – single, white and female - particularly from guides. Groups of people don’t seem to suffer the pestering I’ve been having – something to do with half a dozen voices declining the service instead of just the one. On leaving the Taj, my cheeky boy driver told me it was Rs 500, as I had been a long time. I pointed out other people who had arrived with us, and said I’d been no longer than anyone else.
‘300 for tip’ he said.
‘Forget it, I’ll walk back’ I said and hopped off, offering him the 100 for the one way trip.
He changed his mind, I got back on, and we trotted back to the taxi.
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