Sulabh International Museum of Toilets - 1st May, Saturday

Yes, there really is such a place. Quite an inspirational place believe it or not. Sulabh International Social Service Organisation http://www.sulabhinternational.org/ founded by Dr Bindeshwar Pathak in 1968 is an institution which operates on many levels. Dr Pathak’s primary objective was to restore dignity to the scavenging class, whose unsavory job it was to clean latrine pits by hand. His two-fold method of doing this was through educating the children of scavengers so that they could find other employment, and by providing the type of latrine where the waste could decompose into a soil-like substance, so eliminating the need of a scavenger. From this came the further objective of eliminating local pollution by persuading the population, both rural and urban not to use the great outdoors. This of course could only be achieved of the proper facilities are provided.
Those of you who do not want to know any more, look away now… This kind of pollution is an enormous problem in India. Yesterday at 6 am, as my train went through the slum suburbs of Delhi, I could just make out through the early morning gloom, the outline of many, many figures beside the track, in the familiar Indian squat, watching the train. I wondered what the attraction of the railway line was, and what they were waiting for. Then it dawned that they weren’t waiting for anything. This was the early morning trip, and I was observing the largest public convenience in the world. Mile after mile, where the slums backed onto the railway line, hundreds of squatting figures. (I very much doubt if it was any different on the outskirts of Victorian London, just a question of scale.) Finally, a use needed to be found for all this proposed waste, and Sulabh have done this through their biogas digesters.

It has been the most amazing day. They sent a gentleman, Mr Gaurav, with a driver to collect me, and we drove to the Sulabh International. I was greeted by Dr Pathak, and we were joined by group three other guests, and we went to where the School – pupils and staff were meeting for prayers. The sung quite beautifully the school prayer whilst I stood in a line on the stage with other members of the party. There were welcomes, speeches, and then we were introduced individually, ‘Carolyn Chandler, Churchill Fellow’. Being called first, I didn’t know what was expected of me, and for a brief second I wondered if I was expected to make a speech too. Instead we were honoured with a garland and a shawl. I must admit I was very touched. After prayers, I had a tour of the school; saw the different classes, academic, sewing, design, IT, electrical, beauty, fashion; anything which would help these children get on in life. Some of the students explained what they were doing, and I got to ask questions – a bit like being Queen for a day. ......‘And what do you do..?’

Then I had a tour of the Toilet Museum. Most entertaining. Don’t take my word for it – if you’re near Delhi – go. My wonderfully enthusiastic guide showed latrines through the ages, 5000 years ago to one from a spacecraft. Photos, maps, artefacts, facsimiles, and all done with great humour. Next I was given a tour of the latrine designs. Although still horrendously hot, I saw something I hadn’t seen since I flew over Eastern Europe. A cloud.
It has taken Dr Pathak decades to change public attitudes and he still feels he has a long way to go. Not only has he to remove the stigma of the ‘Untouchable’ but the centre makes amusing references to the culture of ‘no toilets please, we’re Indians’. His approach, as well as a steady drip, drip on behavioural change, employs techniques


....I interrupt this broadcast with breaking news….. it is 6 pm local time, there was a huge clap of thunder, which I thought was a major trauma in the kitchen, and it’s raining. How very unexpected. I told you I’d seen a cloud. I went down to enjoy the wet and relative coolness, and to find out how unusual this rain might be. Quite a phenomenon, I was told, you are honoured. I took tea at one end of the patio, under the verandah, and the rain from the other end slowly seeped across the marble tiles until the water reached my feet. Shirley Valentine is alive and well………

Outside the Sulabh International is a public toilet. It is this which feeds the biogas digester, which in turn provides gas for lighting, cooking and generating electricity. Next to the loos – a drop-in health centre. One fully qualified doctor, lots of educational material on health and hygiene, and medical advice – all free. It is the most amazing, integrated, holistic approach to any problem I’ve ever come across. When I first viewed their website, I really wanted to find out how one man could bring about such behavioural change. What a privilege to see him and his centre at first hand.